Tamogoyaki is a Japanese style omelette. It's "rolled". Not like a French omelette which is quickly and loosely scrambled into small curds then finished in the round pan into a graceful, sexy oblong shape. Or, scrambled all mushed up then shaped into that classic rectangular form. No cheating!
Tamagoyaki is formed a thin layer rolled upon a thin layer, then again and again. The rectagular shape is on account of the squarish pan used in it's preparation. Of course, you can use a round pan, but its cool to be square.
Rather than slogging through a lengthy master class worth of verbal description let's look at a video for starters ...
PS You'll also see in the last video at the end of this there's also lots of room for add-ins too.
That's a basic demonstration of the preparation. We'll mention some corrections in the following.
Tamagoyaki is delicious. Very tender, as you can imagine from the thin, lightly cooked layers. If you are interested in doing this at home this article will help get you started. Sharing some lessons we've learned along the way.
First is to decide on the pan. There are tons of non-stick versions. We don't go there anymore. So, the next choice is between a classic copper with tin lining, or cast Iron. We chose cast Iron for our first venture. The copper classic is a bit intimidating, but we're very tempted to try one too. I think I'm turning Japanese ...
Here is the cast Iron version we recommend. Ichiwa Iron Tamagoyaki omelette pan. 50 bucks on Amazon. Very well made in Japan. Once it's seasoned, it works like a dream. Best for a 3-4 large Eggs, or 3 extra-large.
The decision point on choice of pan spins around the size of the finished omelette. If you're preparing Tamagoyaki for breakfast, that pan serves two nicely. But, smalish portions. It's bottom size is 5" X 6". Or, if you have an appetite, make one, keep it warm, then make another. The process is a bit slower than is the French style. So think ahead if you're gonna make two and have them both arrive to table nice and warm. By the way, this style also makes for a great take from home lunch. Eats good room temperature.
For serving more than two, maybe consider the copper version. They are made in various sizes. Just be aware, the seasoning process with the tin lining is critical for a no stick result. Amazon also sells this type pan under the Japan made brand Tikusan. Looks well made. Seems like a good choice for a 3 or 4 family size would the the 7.1" X 7.1" at $85; or, the 8.3 X 8.3 for $100. If you go this way, know that the wood handle is set in place with a pin. Maybe better to use a very small round head brass screw. Admittedly that's a fussy point, but it's a point. If you stick with the supplied pin just be sure the wood handle is jammed good and tight into the copper receiver before setting the pin. It's no fun with a wobbly handle.
One other piece of equipage is with what do you turn the roll in the pan. We use a wide silicone Tamagoyaki spatula. Also available on Amazon. If you watch a number of other videos on the preparation you'll see the pros using chop sticks and flipping the pan to get the roll into shape. The cast Iron pan is a way bit too heavy for such maneuvers. The Copper is lighter, therefore more workable for that. The flip isn't necessary, it's just an efficiency the pros learn making them so often.
We'd say that the ideal way to get into Tamagoyaki is the cast Iron pan first, then graduate to the Copper. But, it is an expense, and how many times are you gonna make that omelette? But, believe us, once you try it, you'll come back for more.
Okay, you got your pan. Now what?
You'll see that the classic Tamagoyaki ingredients are Eggs and a thin liquid mix of Dashi broth, Mirin, and Soy sauce. Sugar too, but that is entirely optional, and a matter of taste. If you're preparing for Tamago Sushi, then the Sugar is de rigueur.
We are Westerners and not so culturally steeped that we consider the Dashi a must. We don't prepare this dish that often and making Dashi soup stock is a bit extra — Bonito flakes and Kombu; or, even instant Dashi powder — and it's not an element we feel makes or breaks the dish. Instead, we use one (1) Tablespoon of water per Egg and a nice spritz of Soy/Tamari and another of Mirin. Don't even know if those two are necessary. But the extra liquid factor seems to be a must. For more on that subject, go fetch. There's plenty online. And, of course, your own taste is what you have to please. Eggs, no matter where in the world, are just fine prepared simple and plain.
What now?
When you watch enough videos on the making of Tamagoyaki you'll notice a few must-do's. After the pan is seasoned, a thin layer of neutral flavor oil is swabbed on. We use Peanut Oil. You choose your choice. And, after each layer is rolled up the entire pan is once again oiled. Entire. The top portion, move the formed egg back up, then the bottom. So do that. You don't want the egg layer to stick, or get browned. If it does brown, Tango on and hide it into the next fold. And, if the whole thing gets browned serve it enthusiastically, without any tableside confessions or apologies. What goes on in the kitchen ...
Side bar: As told to me ... at Thanksgiving dinner the maid enters the dining room through the kitchen door and then accidentally drops the Turkey onto the floor in front of all the seated guests. The hostess, without skipping a beat, says, "Please take that one back and bring out the other one". Lesson: the old-timers kept a kitchen behind a closed door for good reason. Again ... what goes on in the kitchen, stays in the kitchen.
Just have to say it ... who thought up the "open" kitchen? No doubt someone who likes the aroma of Bacon permeating the entire house in the morning. Coffee, well who doesn't like that? This Cat knows what he likes, you can bet on that!
The next thing to be fussy about is the amount of liquid you pour into the pan at each step. In the video up front we'd say there was a way bit too much. Pour enough for the layer to set up fairly quickly, not so much that you have to wait and/or scramble it to get it going. You don't, however, have to ever wait until the layer is fully set. A little slick wetness is fine; it'll set up as it goes.
As was said, we use a wide silicone spatula. The width makes it handy for the flips. It's up to you though. You may use the spatula you have on hand, or go full on Nippon and use chop sticks.
But, please, don't go full-on "Nippon Nuts". There is a soul to any cuisine; but, as they say, "Saffron robes don't make the monk". Get some skills first. Then when you earn your chops you can dress up.
That's it. Please look at some more videos. Believe us, the order of events making this dish is specific. More than once we've had to stop and figure out like which end of the pan does each successive roll go to. It's a practiced thing. Basic procedure: into a well oiled pan over medium heat — a thin layer of the Egg liquid — you roll from top to bottom — oil the pan again — push the roll to the top— add egg mixture — lifting top roll to get egg mixture underneath — then roll top to bottom again. And, so forth.
